When people think of Carnival in Madeira, they usually picture large samba-style parades in Funchal — feathers, loud music, and packed streets. But out in the rural areas of the island, Carnival has a very different rhythm.
Here, it’s smaller, funnier, sometimes chaotic, and deeply rooted in local tradition. It’s less about perfection and more about community, humour, and letting go — even if just for a few days.
If you’re visiting the north or the interior of Madeira during Carnival, here’s what you can expect.
A local celebration, village by village
In rural areas across Madeira — especially in places like Porto Moniz, São Vicente, Seixal, and smaller mountain villages — Carnival is organised locally, often by the municipality or community associations.
Each village does its own thing:
- Small Carnival parades with handmade floats
- Local bands and music groups
- Children from local schools dressed in costumes
- Elders from retirement homes, proudly taking part
- Sports clubs, folklore groups, and neighbourhood associations
Nothing is overly polished — and that’s exactly the charm. It feels like the whole village comes together, whether they’re marching, playing music, or simply watching and laughing from the roadside.
This years parade in Porto Moniz is: 15th of February (Sunday), from 15h30.
👠 Yes, men dressing as women is a big thing
One thing that surprises almost every visitor:
men dressing as women is not just common — it’s practically mandatory.
And we’re not talking subtle costumes.
Think:
- Mini skirts
- High heels (sometimes impressively well-walked in)
- Heavy, exaggerated makeup
- Wigs that don’t quite fit
- And very often… a proudly exposed, very hairy chest
No one really questions why this became such a tradition — it just is. Carnival has always been a time when social roles are reversed, rules are bent, and ridicule is encouraged. In rural Madeira, this tradition survived in the most unapologetic way possible.
The goal isn’t to look convincing.
The goal is to be ridiculous — and to make everyone laugh.
🍩 Carnival food: Malassadas and Sonhos
Like many places in Europe, Carnival in Madeira is closely linked to fried pastries, traditionally prepared before Lent.
The most iconic are malassadas.
Malassadas are:
- Made from yeast dough
- Extremely labour-intensive
- Traditionally prepared by beating the dough aggressively by hand
It’s a full upper-body workout — and often a group activity, with several people taking turns. The result is a light, airy pastry, fried and coated in treacle (locals call it: sugar cane honey and is often translated literally), best eaten fresh and warm.
Because of the effort involved, many families now opt for sonhos:
- Quicker and easier to prepare
- The dough is cooked slowly over low heat before frying
- Still fried and sweet, but less demanding to make
Both are usually eaten on the same day they’re made. This is why you might not always find them in bakeries or cafés — they’re often prepared at home or sold temporarily by local associations during Carnival events.
If you see a small stall selling them, don’t hesitate. Fresh is everything.
🚧 Road closures and practical tips
During Carnival week, it’s common for temporary road closures, especially in villages where parades pass through narrow streets.
A few important things to know:
- Schedules vary by municipality
- Times and routes are often announced last-minute
- Information is usually shared on municipality Facebook pages, not official tourism websites
- Some roads may close briefly and reopen quickly — flexibility is key
If you’re driving in rural areas, expect:
- Delays
- Detours
- And occasional moments where you simply wait and enjoy the show
This is one of those times when local knowledge really helps, especially in villages with steep, narrow roads.
Why rural carnival is worth experiencing
Carnival in rural Madeira isn’t about spectacle — it’s about participation.
You don’t feel like a tourist watching from the outside. You feel like you’ve stumbled into something genuine.
It’s loud, funny, imperfect, and deeply human.
If you’re staying in the north of the island, experiencing Carnival this way gives you a much better understanding of Madeira’s character — playful, resilient, and not afraid to laugh at itself.
Final thoughts
If you happen to be in Madeira during Carnival, don’t limit yourself to the big parades. Take the time to explore the villages, follow the music, and embrace the unexpected.
You might not understand every tradition — but you’ll remember them.