There are places in Madeira that feel older than time — and Fanal Forest is one of them.
Every time I bring guests here on my 4×4 tour, I watch the same thing happen: the moment they step out of the vehicle, they go completely quiet. The mist hangs low over the twisted laurel trees, the air smells of moss and wet earth, and for a second it feels like the whole world is holding its breath.
This forest has that kind of power.
A living relic from the Ice Age
The Fanal Forest is part of the Laurisilva of Madeira, a subtropical rainforest that has been here for over 20 million years. Back in the last Ice Age, most of Europe’s ancient laurel forests disappeared — but Madeira’s survived, protected by the island’s mild and humid climate.
Today, this forest is one of the last and best-preserved examples of that prehistoric world. It’s so special that UNESCO named it a World Heritage Site. When you walk among these trees, you’re stepping into a piece of Earth’s deep history — a living remnant of an era long before humans.
The trees of Fanal
The trees here have incredible character. The oldest ones, especially the Ocotea foetens (we call them Til trees), have gnarled, sculptural trunks shaped by centuries of wind and fog. Some may be hundreds of years old.
Look closer and you’ll see how life clings to every surface — mosses, lichens, and ferns cover the bark, drinking moisture from the constant mist. Other native species, like Laurus novocanariensis (Louro) and Erica arborea (Urze), add layers of green that shift in tone with the light.
When the mist rolls in (and it often does), the whole landscape transforms. Sometimes it’s eerie and quiet, sometimes golden and glowing — every visit feels different. That’s why I never get tired of bringing people here.
The magic and the mist
The mist at Fanal isn’t just for atmosphere — it’s essential to life here. Locals call it “horizontal rain” because the moisture doesn’t fall from the sky, it drifts through the air, captured by the leaves and branches.
It’s this constant blanket of fog that keeps the forest alive, feeding the soil and the springs below. Without it, Madeira wouldn’t be the same island.
If you want to catch Fanal at its most magical, come early in the morning or late in the afternoon. That’s when the fog is thickest, and the silence is almost sacred. But remember: this is nature. The best moments are the ones you don’t plan — when the clouds suddenly open and sunlight cuts through the mist like a spotlight. Pure magic.
How to visit Fanal — and protect it
Fanal has become a must-see spot for photographers and travelers, and while it’s wonderful that more people are discovering it, the forest is also under stress.
The bark of the ancient Til trees is delicate, and when people climb or lean on them for photos, it can cause real harm. The soil is also easily compacted, which damages the roots and prevents new plants from growing.
If you visit — and I hope you do — here’s how to enjoy Fanal the right way:
- Don’t climb or touch the trees.
They’re fragile, even if they look strong. - Stay on grassy or existing paths.
Avoid trampling moss or saplings. - Leave no trace.
Take your rubbish, and please — no smoke, no fires. - Keep it quiet.
Let the forest’s sounds be the soundtrack: wind, cow bells, your footsteps on wet grass. - Consider going with a local guide.
We know the safest routes, the best viewpoints, and the quietest times to visit. You’ll see more — and help preserve the forest too.
Exploring Fanal on my private 4×4 tour
Fanal sits high above the Ribeira da Janela valley, tucked between the ocean and the Paúl da Serra plateau. The drive there is half the adventure — winding roads, sudden views of the coast, and sometimes herds of cows wandering through the mist.
On my private 4×4 tours, I love taking guests off the main roads to reach the quieter corners of Fanal. We stop for photos, breathe the clean mountain air, and explore parts of the forest most people never see.
It’s not a rushed visit — it’s a slow, mindful experience.
Whether you’re a nature lover, photographer, or simply looking for the “real Madeira,” visiting Fanal with a local guide lets you enjoy this ancient forest respectfully and deeply.
Final thoughts
The Fanal Forest is more than a sightseeing stop. It’s a reminder of how small we are — and how beautiful the world can be when we leave it untouched.
If you ever find yourself in the north of Madeira, don’t miss it. Bring a warm jacket, a camera, and an open heart. And if you’d like to explore it with someone who knows every turn of the road — I’d be honoured to take you there.